*rubbing hands* Ok, Sunblock 101, here we go!
Yar, indeed sunblock can get quite oily, which is why a lot of people don't use them. BUT a tiny pimple now or wrinkles that appear 8 years earlier than naturally scheduled? You guys take the toss up.
Luckily, cosmetics companies have recognized the need for a non-greasy formula to combat the damaging effects of UV rays a long time ago. But first, as I DID graduate with a Biochemistry degree, let me give you guys the basics on the active ingredients you may see on several brands:
Paraaminobenzoic acid (PABA) - the conjugated system makes it a natural candidate for absorbing UV rays. HOWEVER people with sensitive skin (like Cindy and Joyce) should avoid this like the plague - it has a tendency to generate allergic reactions. Hives are DEFINITELY worse than pimples. Actually, my favourite past time was going up to the bimbos at the department store cosmetic counters and asking if their sunblock contains "paraaminobenzoic acid" and watching them screw their eyebrows in puzzlement. Haha, all those wrinkles they were pretending not to have by not smiling are finally revealed!
Parsol - the general consensus is that it is effective. It is cheap, so a lot of lower end sunscreens include it as the active ingredient. But with savings comes a sacrifice - this is the greasy stuff you're probably complaining about.
Mexoryl SX - A wonder product. It blocks UVB (lower energy) AND short UVA rays (higher energy) (recall first year Physics - shorter wavelength, higher energy). PLUS, this stuff is only available in Canada and Europe - those Americans are still having it approved by the FDA. Products that would contain this stuff include Vichy Captial Soleil, which runs for about $24/bottle for SPF 60.
Zinc oxide - this mineral is a physical blocker, in that it doesn't absorb electromagnetic rays, it downright
reflects them. What does that mean for you? You are protected from both UV rays AND heat, which is good because heat is also capable of skin damage. Something that includes a lot of zinc oxide is Shiseido's waterproof sunscreens. However, those go for about $40 or more per bottle.
Titanium dioxide - its high refractive index also makes this mineral a great physical blocker. Note, like zinc oxide, this is highly pigmented, so it leaves a white tinge on your skin when you apply. I guess it's ok if you're naturally pale, or want to look more pale 8P. A lot of sunscreens contain titanium dioxide these days. Skinceuticals has one that contains naturally tinted titanium dioxide, so it's more skin-toned when you apply it. That is about $25/bottle.
Now, sunscreen is not the only line of defense you should consider though. If you are really sunphobic (like I am), you might want to consider applying an antioxidant-rich serum UNDERNEATH your sunscreen. The rationale is that whatever UV rays your sunscreen fails to absorb/reflect, it will ultimately hit your skin, generating free radicals and giving it the opportunity to damage DNA and create thymidine photodimers, etc. However, if you have a protective serum underneath, it will neutralize those free radicals before they can do any damage. I won't go into mechanistic details, but certain antioxidants include:
- Vitamin E
- Vitamin C
- Vitamin A
- coenzyme Q10
- flavanoids
- polyphenols
The latter two are considered phytochemicals, and are found in grape seed extracts and green tea. I read a few journal articles, and it appears that vitamins are more absorbable in their ester form...
So what do I use? Everyday, I apply Ingrid Millet sunscreen, SPF 50, or opt for the Vichy one when I want extra sun protection. Shiseido goes on when I go to Ultimate or Dragonboat for its water resistance. To tell you the truth, I have yet to find an antioxidant-rich serum that doesn't make me break out or have an acidity that burns my skin, so I'll keep you guys posted on that.
Ok, I know I have a lot of blog bylaw infractions in this post, and it's really long, so I'll shut up now.
